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Good Taste: La Creperie
February 20, 2006 by Howard Blas

2608 Broadway between 98th and 99th Streets, NY Tel.: (212) 865- 7334; Open: Sun-Thurs: 11am-11pm Fri: 11am-2pm Sat: one hour after Shabbat-1 a.m.

It is not at all surprising to find a kosher dairy restaurant on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. But when it opened “the day after Pesah last year,” according to its tuxedo-clad host, Enrique, La Creperie added “authentically French” to the neighborhood’s kosher cuisine. With wooden floors and brick-and-wood-paneled walls, and adorned with color photos of the French countryside, Manhattan might just fade away… except for the company of diners: young observant couples on dates, neighborhood families with children, and the occasional Hebrew speaker or three.

The crepe master, perched in the center of the restaurant, prepares each dish in seconds. He is surrounded by some 30 small bins containing fillings for the 43 dinner and dessert cr?pes offered - ranging from cheese, salmon, tuna, sea bass, asparagus, onions and spinach to ice cream, maple syrup, pears, strawberries, peanut butter, sprinkles and four types of jams. I opted for one of the La Cr?pe Veggies, the ratatouille ($10). With a wonderfully spiced blend of tomato sauce, mushrooms, onion and eggplant, it was delicious.

But there is more than the eponymous crepe to choose from. The curried butternut squash soup, for example, topped with chopped cilantro ($7), was just the right mix of sweet and spicy. And entrees include fish dishes, like seared bass en papillote, with potato and bean curd ($26); roast red snapper, fried sweet potato and greens ($24), and an eggplant-wrapped mahi-mahi with tomato and lemon ($26); and assorted salads and pastas ($17-$20). I overheard one diner tell the waiter that her penne pasta ? la vodka with shallots ($18) was “heavenly.”

La Creperie hosts private parties, and offers take-out and deliveries, with a $10 minimum. And for a keepsake to put on your shelf, there’s always a copy of “Great Kosher Restaurants - International Edition, 2006,” featuring La Creperie on page 29, which Enrique generously offered me for a mere $3.

Howard Blas
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